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Led face masks are everywhere, but does the science support the claims? Here, the experts reveal all Ems Butt Trainer Belt
Previously restricted to the four walls of a facialist’s clinic, LED masks have now fully broken into the mainstream, with an increasing array of skin-tech brands offering at-home light therapy devices that promise transformative results with consistent use.
If you haven't experienced an LED mask before, you've probably at-least seen one in action. A quick scroll on Instagram confirms the A-list appeal of these smart devices: pretty much everyone has been spotted posing in an illuminated mask, from Victoria Beckham to Kate Hudson. So ingrained into beauty culture are these strange-looking devices, they’ve even enjoyed fleeting roles in the likes of Emily and Paris and Sex Education.
Now, a few years after this technology first hit the home-use market, a host of brands are ushering in a new wave of devices, pushing the technology further in an attempt to reignite demand and deliver next-level results.
But are the latest LED devices really that efficacious, and, more importantly, safe in untrained hands? Here, the experts reveal everything you need to know about LED light therapy.
Firstly, are LED masks simply celeb catnip, or is there solid science underpinning their appeal? Actually, a hefty amount of clinical research has shown that certain light devices can effectively treat a multitude of skin concerns, with particular success when it comes to increasing collagen production and management of (mild to moderate) acne. One small study has even found green light therapy to show promise when it comes to fading melasma and hyperpigmentation: conditions that are famously tricky to tackle with topical products alone.
However, it's important to know that the results of light-therapy treatments are cumulative, meaning you won’t see long-term benefits from that single salon facial you treat yourself to once a year. If regular appointments aren’t an option, investing in an at-home LED mask could be the answer.
“At-home LED masks are an excellent way to bring a normally in-office treatment to the comfort of your home," says Dr. Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon and founder of MZ Skin. “These at-home devices will not be as strong as the LED used in a clinic setting, but they do have similar benefits."
Therabody’s first foray into LED really moves the technology forward: this solid face mask features 648 lights that offer multiple wavelengths – red, red and infrared, and blue – in each diode, meaning you’re getting full face coverage whichever you choose (Most devices only feature sections of either colour within their matrix.)
What’s more, powerful vibrating pads around the eyes, brows and head bring the brand’s signature tension-melting massage therapy to each nine-minute treatment. With removable rubber eye guards and a flexible front, this one may look hefty, but feels supremely comfortable to wear.
Foreo’s new LED mask features a hefty 600 lights and offers seven different wavelengths, adding healing green, regenerating purple and inflammation-calming cyan to the traditional hues.
It’s made from flexible silicone with a larger-than-usual eye window, which means you can easily walk around while wearing it. The smartphone app allows you to choose pre-set treatments to tackle any skin concern.
The largest LED device on the market for at-home use, the clinic-grade Dermalux Flex comprises 360 lights and offers a whole range of treatment protocols, from acne-zapping blue light to firming near-infrared. Use it as a canopy over your face, or position it over sore muscles from head to toe.
These battery-powered LED patches combine light therapy with active ingredients to plump and rejuvenate under the eyes. They're designed to be used with the accompanying single-use hydrocolloid patches, which sit underneath to infuse the skin with a cocktail of niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and peptides.
As aesthetician Angela Caglia explains, the benefits of LED for skin were discovered by happy accident. "Light therapy was originally developed by NASA for healing wounds in space. US Navy Seals in the 1990s began using it, and shortly thereafter aestheticians brought it to their treatment rooms, inspired by the clinical data that proved LED to help with not just skin repair, but to stimulate collagen, fade age spots, and decrease inflammation and acne too."
According to dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross, the benefits of LED light therapy are manifold. They include treating acne, regulating natural oil production, stimulating collagen and elastin and minimising redness and wrinkles. Certain wavelengths have even been shown to reduce dark spots and uneven skin tone.
As the spectrum of light used does not include UV, there's no risk of damage (and no, you won't get a tan).
“LED therapy uses light in the visible spectrum – including blue, yellow, amber and red – as well as light beyond the visible spectrum to penetrate different depths of skin. As the light wavelength increases, so does the depth of penetration,” explains Dr. Gross. This light is absorbed by receptors in the skin, just like topical skincare, and each colour of light stimulates a different response within the cells.
Made of lightweight, flexible silicone, The Light Salon's LED mask is one of the most comfortable to wear. It boasts almost 100 individual LEDs and emits both red and near-infrared light.
A firm favourite, this flexible silicone mask from tech specialists Currentbody 132 LED bulbs and emits both red and near-infrared wavelengths to deliver a multitude of skin benefits. It's one of the strongest mask options on the market, making it a particularly savvy investment.
This flexible and portable LED mask is the new, high-power version of Dr. Maryam Zamani's cult original design. It's made from silicone that moulds closely around the face, ensuring optimal light absorption, and boasts two settings: the red and blue Acne mode, and the red with infrared Anti-Ageing mode.
We're so impressed with Solawave's small but mighty LED wands. This blue-light option is designed to treat breakouts and acne, working to kill the bacteria that leads to spots.
Dr. Zamani adds that one of the primary benefits of LED therapy is the absence of downtime and discomfort – in fact, skin often looks positively glowing as soon as you slip out from behind the mask. What’s more, the healing properties of LED also make it ideal for use after in-office procedures, such as peels, lasers and microneedling. It's also suitable for all skin types and tones.
Angela Caglia's latest LED mask combines performance with pampering. The former comes via the 180 red LEDs – the highest number in any flexible silicone device on the market – while the latter is courtesy of the genuine rose-quartz crystals which are embedded between the lights to promote a sense of calm. Supremely light and comfortable, it's one you'll look forward to using each evening.
Therabody's maximalist Theraface device offers the brand's famed percussive therapy benefits for the face. This multi-functional device combines massage with microcurrent, heat and cryotherapy, and both red and blue LED light to treat all manner of skin concerns.
The one that started it all, Dr. Dennis Gross' FDA-cleared SpectraLite device combines 100 red led diodes with 60 blue. Sleek and practical, it comes with a USB charging port and rests comfortably on your face thanks to the adjustable straps.
There's now a small but growing list of options when it comes to at-home light therapy devices. For a complete facial treatment, an LED mask is the most obvious investment, but the emergence of targeted 'wands' and smaller (more portable) treatment lights is especially interesting for combatting areas of acne-prone skin (not to mention how effortless they are to use).
As LED treatments deliver cumulative results, commitment is key. As Debbie Thomas, laser aesthetician and celebrity facialist says, "just owning a device won’t give you any results."
While instructions will vary depending on the device you choose, LED treatments are usually light on labour. "The good thing about LED masks is they are pretty simple to use and generally only need around 10 minutes of dedicated time," explains Thomas. While a mask offers more 'slip on and relax' appeal, "wand devices are designed to be held over your skin for 20-30 mins, so it's normally a toss-up between an aching arm or boredom that leads a dedicated skin warrior to fall out of love with their new skin gadget."
The ultimate investment, the Cellreturn LED mask features almost 700 lights, so offers one of the highest strengths outside of a clinic setting. There are treatments for acne, dullness and fine lines, and the surprisingly comfortable helmet silhouette also treats your neck.
Compact and comfortable, this device is a great introduction to the benefits of LED light therapy. The flexible silicone mask emits both red and infra-red light. Use it twice a week for the first month, before building up to more regular use.
This powerhouse Solawave 'skincare wand' masterfully combines galvanic current (to enhance serum absorption) with relaxing thermal massage and red LED lights to gradually treat slackened skin and a dull complexion in one fell swoop.
The majority of at-home LED masks offer a red light setting. At the lighter end of the spectrum, red light works to soothe inflammation and redness, while deeper shades penetrate the skin further to prompt cellular repair and circulation, resulting in a plumper, more vibrant complexion.
This antibacterial light is used to kill the bacteria that leads to breakouts, making it ideal for treating acne-prone skin. Blue light also helps purify the pores and regulate oil glands. It's commonly combined with red light in at-home devices, but can also be found in single-spectrum targeted pens, which are ideal for bringing down specific breakouts.
Less common in at-home devices, this colour works to revitalise the skin, reducing any swelling and increasing radiance.
Invisible to the naked eye, this light penetrates deeper than any other colour in the spectrum. It combats the signs of ageing by replenishing dermal and epidermal cells, stimulates the natural production of collagen and elastin, and speeds up the recovery process. You'll find near-infrared light in the most advanced at-home LED masks.
Like many beauty innovations, at-home LED masks have been subject to controversy, sparked by concerns over their potential impact on eye health. However, a 2018 study found "no adverse events associated with the use of these devices and little to no downtime for the patient." While most experts agree that a correctly used LED mask is a safe and efficacious tool, it’s vital to invest in one that has been FDA-approved and purchased from a reputable brand.
"At-home LED devices are a fraction of the strength of devices that are used in professional settings,” says Dr. Gross. “The testing for at-home devices is actually more rigorous than professional ones because the device is being cleared to use without the presence of a professional – there's a higher-level burden of proof to show efficacy and safety because a consumer is in charge of their treatment. For this reason, we focus on specifics like safe optical output and recommended treatment times.” The best at-home LED masks will also be developed with in-build safety mechanisms: look for auto shut-offs, heat regulators and timers.
According to Thomas, the most important consideration to make is that, when wearing a mask that covers your entire face, your eyes should be kept closed – so no slumping in-front of the TV. "The lights are not strictly dangerous, but as they can be very bright you could get irritation. I would say using them for a few minutes daily would be fine as long as you do not have a pre-existing medical condition that sensitises you to light."
Indeed, Dr. Zamani recommends avoiding light therapy if you suffer from seizures or epilepsy. She also does not recommend LED for anyone with migraines, eye conditions, or taking certain types of antibiotics. Of course, a professional should be your first port of call if you are at all unsure.
As with most things in skincare, your LED mask will work best when used in conjunction with the right topical products. Before you fire up your device, cleanse your skin thoroughly to remove make-up and oil. It's fine to apply skincare before using your mask, but most experts advise to apply products after your treatment, as the boost in circulation will enhance absorption.
Caglia strongly recommends using your LED mask over bare skin, as "the shine from skincare (especially sheet masks) will cause a reflection, meaning the wavelengths of the light won’t penetrate as deeply."
When it comes to specific skincare formulas, you have plenty of options: most things play well with LED. Perhaps you're trialling a vitamin C serum for brightening, or maybe a hydrating hyaluronic acid is your booster of choice. If you're aiming to tackle breakouts, salicylic acid is ideal. As always, seal with a moisturiser and don't forget the SPF by day.
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